Holbein stitch derives its name from the 16th century German painter Hans Holbein the Younger. He is famous for his portraits of Henry VIII and his court. Holbein stitch is a running stitch made with gaps between the stitches. The gaps are filled on the return journey so that the stitching looks the same on the front and back. The stitches are usually worked on even weave or counted thread fabrics.
Blackwork embroidery is traditionally worked with a black thread on a white background. The tiny straight stitches are worked across counted threads to make many intricate patterns. It was originally known as Spanish work because it is believed Catherine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII, brought garments from Spain decorated with this type of embroidery.
The two images below show examples of blackwork taken from portraits by Hans Holbein the Younger. The first is the cuff on the dress of Anne Seymour and the second a sleeve on the garment worn by Elizabeth I
Bridget Riley was born in 1931, she studied art at Goldsmiths College and the Royal College of Art. She is best known for a style of painting known as optical art. She began painting in this way during early 1960's. At first her paintings were just black and white geometric shapes that produced optical effects and the feeling of movement. Later she introduced tones of grey.
The painting below is called 'Movement in Squares' and was completed in 1961. Here the squares change gradually to rectangles giving the optical illusion of movement into a ravine.
The painting below is called 'Movement in Squares' and was completed in 1961. Here the squares change gradually to rectangles giving the optical illusion of movement into a ravine.
This painting is called 'Cataract 3' and was completed in 1967 and she has added tones of grey. Here diagonal wavy lines in black, white and grey give the illusion of wave movement on water.
We used similar 'op-art' techniques when 'piecing' paper and fabrics in Chapters 10 and 11 of this module.
I have chosen Iska Jarnica as my artist. She was born in Poland in 1957, studied Fine Arts at Krakow and now lives in Holland. She is known for her incredible paintings and tapestries. In many of her pieces she only uses tones of black, white and grey. I love the wonderful atmosphere she creates in her tonal pieces.
We explored tone in drawing, stitching, piecing paper and fabric in this Module.
The illustrations below of work by Iska Jarnica all demonstrate her use of tone to give wonderful feelings of time and place.
Evaluation of Functional 3D Embroidered items
My assessment piece is an off white linen tunic based on several design topics taken from this module. Snake skin markings are the inspiration for the patterns, particularly the diamond markings evident in many of the photo images I found. It is a patchwork tunic pieced together from linen squares that have been individually embellished with fabric printing, machine stitching and hand embroidery. Tone is introduced with black fading through grey to white. The design is very simple. The squares are stitched into columns. There are three columns to make the back and two columns for each of the fronts. These columns are embellished with sinuous lines of machine stitching and hand embroidery to give the feeling of snake movement. It has a simple round neckline with a facing.
How do you feel about the resulting conclusion?
I learnt many lessons in the designing and making of this tunic. The design went through many revisions, including a 'pilot version' that I completed. However I decided that the purchased fabrics in this pilot version did not give the individual look I wanted. Designing is a road of frustrations, disappointments and successes! I am happy with my final garment.
Is it fit for its purpose - give reasons:
The tunic is definitely fit for purpose. It is comfortable to wear and has an individual look. The finished garment has been washed with no damage to the embellishments and embroidery.
If you were asked to make it again, what changes would you make in the the way you designed it and made it?
I would have dyed the linen fabric, using one of the shibori methods, before making the garment.
Comments:
I have not included photos of my finished pieces because I will bring them to Summer School for your assessment. See you soon! Lorna
